To Platinum or Not to Platinum

In the almost fifty years that my family has been in jewelry manufacturing business I‘ve seen jewelry fashion trends come and go, from the heavy 14kt yellow gold “door knocker’ type earrings of the 1960’s to the current fashion trends of silver, white gold, and platinum. Platinum’s history dates back to the time of the Inca’s in the pre Columbian society of Ecuador, but was not introduced to Europe until the mid 1500’s. While first discovered in South America, today the vast majority of platinum is mined in South Africa, with substantial quantities also coming from Russia and Canada. The are even small amounts of platinum mined in the United States.

Platinum is truly a rare metal with less that 2 ½ tons of the metal being produced worldwide each year, and per onze or unit it has always been the most expensive of the three precious metals. By comparison the United States alone produces more than 1200 tons of silver yearly. Outside of its use in the jewelry industry, platinum has a variety of other uses, not the least of which is in the automobile industry as a catalyst used in the assembly of catalytic converters. Platinum is also used in the manufacture of various electronics, medicines, and auto parts.

While today’s fashion trends favor a white metal over yellow, platinum has many other unique qualities which make it ideal for use in the jewelry industry. Platinum is an extremely dense metal and per unit is twice the weight of gold. This make a platinum piece of jewelry twice as heavy as the same piece in either white or yellow gold. Because of the denseness of the metal it will usually wear better and last longer. It is an extremely strong metal and platinum pieces can be fashioned more delicately and intricately than gold pieces with no fear of compromising the integrity or strength of the jewelry. For example, the screw posts on a pair of platinum earrings will maintain the screw thread longer than those on the same gold posts.

There is also a much greater percentage of platinum in a platinum piece of jewelry that gold in a gold piece of jewelry. Traditionally platinum jewelry is 90 to 95% platinum with 5 to 10% alloy added to the platinum to make it easier to fabricate and work with. Even 18kt gold, on the other hand is only 75% gold, with the remaining 25% a mixture of different alloys which are used for the same purpose in addition to turning yellow gold to white gold. Because Platinum is naturally a silvery white metal and does not oxidize or change color it will retain its luster for a very long time. All white gold on the other hand is plated with a metal called rhodium at the time of its manufacture and will need to be replated from time to time.

Jewelry trends do come and go, but platinum has always been used in the most highly fashioned and expensive pieces of jewelry. Whether from Harry Winston or Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels or Cartier, platinum has always held a special place for designers in their creation of some of the worlds most spectacular pieces of jewelry. Platinum jewelry when combined with either diamonds or colored stones give thoses stones added importance and luster due to the reflective qualities of the metal. Platinum brings out the specialness of each stone by focusing your attention to the sparkle of a white diamond in a perfectly white metal. It enhances the color of any stone, by offering a stark contrast with its own luster of pure platinum. Jewelry made from platinum will offer its owner a lifetime of use and pleasure and provide an heirloom worth passing to the next generation.